Een zeer expressieve jaargang met rijkelijk veel fruit, aromatisch gelaagd en bovenal toegankelijk.
In tegenstelling tot de jaargang 2024 die een extreem kleine oogst bracht, hingen er in 2023 veel druiven aan de stokken, globaal genomen over heel Bourgogne, alhoewel er hagelschade was in Saint-Aubin en Meursault op 11 juli.
Het voorjaar was zacht met voldoende neerslag waardoor de bloemvorming uitbundig was.
Op zich positief maar hier loert ook het risico op concentratieverlies en ziektes door het warme weer van september.
Top producenten als Henri Boillot hebben gemiddeld niet meer opbrengst als in 2022.
In bepaalde wijngaarden moest tot wel 60% van het teveel aan druiven groen gesnoeid worden en dan nog haalde eens rijp, niet de helft van de bessen het einde van de sorteertafel.
Wie hoopte (zoals ondergetekende) op wat meer wijn te kunnen inslaan, zal bij Henri niet terecht kunnen.
Wie hoopte op een zeer goede jaargang in rood zowel als in wit is aan het juiste adres. (PO.)
The reds: they are typically, delicious fruit forward wines for medium term ageing. They do not conform to the profile of any other vintage I have tasted.
One might have expected some parallel with 2017, the last vintage of a similar size, but I have never had that feeling while tasting.
We are really enjoying 2017s now, but 2023 has more personality.
The whites: in some cellars this clearly really is a great vintage. Expect delicious and juicy white wines, without evident dilution, but probably not destined for the very long haul.
I think the best of 2022 certainly and 2020 possibly will have greater staying power.
Zelden zo sappig gemaakt als deze mooi geconcentreerde blend van fruit uit de Côte de Beaune en de Côte de Nuits.
Een charmerend glas om jong te drinken. Tot 2030.
J.M. Inside Burgundy:
The Bourgogne includes fruit from Pernand and Santenay and Marsannay.
Rich deep purple, very ripe cherry, not cooked, but in the opulent style.
Slightly firm fruit behind, with a certain glossiness before the crunchy finish.
Drink from 2026-2028.
J.M. Inside Burgundy:
A rich and saturated crimson purple. Here there is more velvet in the texture.
Still a certain firmness, more red berries than darker fruit, fills the palate and persists.
Some of the grace of Volnay plus Henri Boillot’s uncompromising style.
Drink from 2027-2031.
J.M. Inside Burgundy:
Frémiets, the limestone radiator, says Henri. Picked in good time, as the perfume of ripe raspberry with a little soft strawberry indicates.
Satisfying across the palate with some energy at the finish, fully ripe but has kept its balance and with adequate acidity.
The tannins are fully ripe.
Drink from 2029-2034.
J.M. Inside Burgundy:
A fine crimson purple. A little fresher than the Frémiets, with pure red fruit, cherry and raspberry,
a little more mouthfilling, stays youthful all the way through, very well mastered, an impressive Chevrets.
Drink from 2029-2034.
De Boillot’s zijn afkomstig uit deze gemeente en ‘Les Caillerets’ is hun grand cru. Zonder meer één van de beste percelen uit de gemeente Volnay.
0.60 ha met zeer oude stokken van 60+ jaar. 100% nieuw hout François Frères met drie jaar droging. Prachtige expressie van de minerale stenige bodem.
J.M. Inside Burgundy:
A darker crimson colour, and the fruit too has added a darker note. Black raspberries, a little fresher red fruit further back on the palate, concentrated, tannins present but ripe, fair length.
Drink from 2029-2035.
Vinification intégrale. 100% nieuw hout François Frères 350 l.
J.M. Inside Burgundy:
A deep ruby purple. Powerful dense red fruit without detail as yet. Solid, concentrated, four-square, with no shortage of fruit, and a few tannins completing the muscular structure.
Perhaps not quite as persistent as the best in the cellar.
Drink from 2031-2037.
J.M. Inside Burgundy:
A crimson ruby. A little wilder than the Chambertin duo, a little plummier, softly ripe raspberries, a range of interesting complex aromatics.
Builds fascinatingly on the palate, possibly a higher pH but thoroughly rewarding, with a complex texture as well, multi-layered, and very long.
Drink from 2032-2040.
J.M. Inside Burgundy:
From appellation Bourgogne vineyards in Puligny-Montrachet and Meursault along with a bit of St-Aubin and Auxey-Duresses.
Mid lemon yellow, with a very engaging correctly ripe Burgundian chardonnay bouquet. Sign up for this.
There is still some gas present at the moment which enforces the welcome freshness.
Drink from 2026-2028.
J.M. Inside Burgundy:
A fuller yellow, with a reductive character on the nose and a few toasted rocks, flinty style.
Very energetic on the palate, racy yet with a fruit volume which impresses.
A distinguished long feeling. One third new oak which is barely visible.
Drink from 2027-2031.
J.M. Inside Burgundy:
All domaine. En Luraules, Chevalières, Casse Têtes, Petits Charrons.
Mid lemon yellow, not as immediately powerful as En Remilly, but more refined and then fleshes out on the second half of the plate, where it really impresses.
A back loaded Meursault as it should be, yet with adequate minerals too. Very, very persistent. 20% new wood.
Drink from 2028-2032.
J.M. Inside Burgundy:
Tasted Oct 2024 Not Bottled. From upper Poruzots. A rich yellow with a green tint. This is oakier and even a bit heavy on the nose.
Fuller white fruit on the palate, the colour and nose will be cleaned up before bottling. A touch of bacon fat. More complicated to taste today.
Given Henri Boillot’s track record I would expect this to be sorted before bottling, and thus to rate higher than today’s verdict.
Drink from 2029-2033.
J.M. Inside Burgundy:
Mid lemon yellow, with a pure sunny white fruit nose, not demonstrative.
Much classier stone fruit in the mouth, with a citrus energy towards the back. Well integrated oak, great persistence, this is a very noble Goutte d’Or.
Drink from 2030-2036.
J.M. Inside Burgundy:
A fine even lemon yellow. Racy on the nose, not as immediately distinguished as Goutte d’Or but the qualities creep up on you.
More linear, a suggestion of salinity., with layers of a pure limestone white fruit, plenty of dry extract affirms Henri Boillot. Very persistent.
Drink from 2030-2036.
J.M. Inside Burgundy:
From Charmes, Houlières, Enseignères, Rue Rousseau and Rue aux Vaches. 20% new wood.
Mid lemon yellow. Reductive. Starts discreetly, then builds in intensity, as always more linear than the Meursault, with a fair length of finish.
Drink from 2028-2032.
J.M. Inside Burgundy:
A lemon colour. This is more on the stones than a heavyweight on the nose. On the palate there is a wealth of ripe citrus, with the start of some yellow peaches, but the stones definitely dominate.
Slightly two-speed at the moment, but should pull together by the end of its elevage.
Drink from 2029-2035.
J.M. Inside Burgundy:
First picked, as you have to these days. Mid lemon yellow. The bouquet shows softer fruit up front, something of a cashmere texture on the palate, with some ripe citrus, fair acidity but the balance of the wine is more fragile.
Drink from 2029-2033.
J.M. Inside Burgundy:
Clear pale lemon. Immediate class on the nose, a pure white fruit with just the right degree of sunshine to make it satisfying.
Electricity on the palate, energetic fresh limestone, some ripe citrus persisting behind.
Henri tells me that Pucelles came in with both the highest sugar level and the highest acidity.
Drink from 2030-2038.
J.M. Inside Burgundy:
Fuller yellow here, and an extra degree of completeness, more weight and almost all the class.
The oak is still at 50% new and is very well integrated. Gorgeously rich, with little fruits dancing through a meadow.
Once again, I do see the magic of this. Henri was strongly advised by his father to look after “Madame de la Mouchère”.
Drink from 2030-2038.
J.M. Inside Burgundy:
Fullish yellow, beautifully rich, quite oaky. Quite an opulent fruit salad style of nose behind, blows the oak off in no time at all.
Pretty weighty, quite muscular, good acidity, the feeling that you are barely seeing what is underneath.
Possibly not the same degree of finesse as the Clos de la Mouchère, though....
Drink from 2031-2040.
J.M. Inside Burgundy:
A paler colour, also beautifully done, with little stones infusing the bouquet. “This is far from being ridiculous” suggests Henri. A wonderful thread.
The oak is a touch more marked, an iron backbone yet with some delicacy to the fruit, fresh apple, a little citrus, some pear as well, and all a harmonious whole. Really well done.
Drink from 2030-2038.