Bourgogne 2024 is -eerlijk- voor pinot noir geen goed jaar. Hoe hoger naar het noorden hoe slechter de condities waren. Koud en nat. De witte wijnen van de Côte de Beaune hebben minder geleden, zeker de wijngaarden op de helling met een betere expositie en drainage.
Jasper Morris (Inside Burgundy) vat het goed samen:
Toen ik aan deze proeverij begon, wist ik niet goed wat ik moest verwachten. Maar al snel werd ik aangenaam verrast – en uiteindelijk zelfs oprecht enthousiast.
De witte wijnen van 2021 vond ik destijds al interessant, maar de 2024s hebben duidelijk meer karakter.
De kwaliteit is over het algemeen consistent, al zijn er mooie stilistische verschillen.
Sommige wijnen tonen een vlijmscherpe zuurgraad, zelfs na malolactische gisting, met frisse aroma’s van citrus en knapperige appel.
Andere wijnen hebben juist meer rondheid, soms zelfs een vleugje zoetheid.
Sommige producenten noemen 2021, maar die vergelijking zie ik niet echt. De meest ambitieuze verwijzen naar 2014 – en dat begrijp ik bij enkele van de allerbeste wijnen, dankzij hun stevige ruggengraat. Toch denk ik dat zelfs deze sneller op dronk zullen zijn. Af en toe moest ik zelfs terugdenken aan 1992, een prachtige jaargang voor witte Bourgogne.
De oogst startte op 15 september in Volnay. Rode druiven waren schaars: de totale opbrengst leverde slechts 18 vaten op. Bij wit waren de resultaten veel beter, met 35 tot 38 hl/ha. Gezonde druiven, vergist in 350-liter vaten van François Frères. Henri is ervan overtuigd dat zijn wijnen ver boven die van 2021 uitsteken. Hij legt een link met 2014, een ambitieuze vergelijking, maar sommige van zijn wijnen maken die stelling zeker waar.
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J.M. Inside Burgundy: 86-87
Three barrels instead of 40. No purchased grapes this year so just his own vines. Bright crimson to ruby.
A solid nose of strawberry and raspberry, perhaps lacking the extra point of vivacity. Very sound on the palate, perhaps with a little point of austerity at the back. Some crunch to the raspberries, but ideally there would be a little mid palate generosity.
Drink from 2027-2029.
J.M. Inside Burgundy: 88-90
A medium depth of crimson. Some floral elegance to the nose with some light raspberry aromas. Very nicely balanced on the attack, them some oak and the slight austerity of the vintage come into play.
The aftertaste however shows both raspberry and strawberry fruit to good effect.
Drink from 2028-2033.
J.M. Inside Burgundy: 89-91
A slightly more sombre crimson. I am coaxing out some red fruit on the nose, then the intensity rather surprises on the palate.
Now I can find more on the nose as well. A suggestion of peonies along with brisk and rather peppery raspberry.
Drink from 2028-2035.
J.M. Inside Burgundy: 90 93
A vibrant crimson with a little more depth than the Fremiets. The aromatics approach the nobility of a Caillerets, and so too on the palate.
A fresh limestone thread runs through the middle. All the class of Volnay with structure too.
Drink from 2029-2035.
J.M. Inside Burgundy: 91-94
A little deeper in crimson, approaching ruby. The complex nose offers slightly darker fruit, a briary note, and a little new oak.
he most volume of fruit among the Volnays, plus that slightly more regal touch to the fruit, which covers the bone structure completely. Good acidity behind. Promising.
Drink from 2030-2036.
J.M. Inside Burgundy: 87- 88
A mid lemon yellow colour, lively and concentrated, candied citrus, fresh plum. Very lightly reductive. There is a spicy character too, but the fruit energy drives on through.
We are flirting with 2014 says Henri.
Drink from 2027-2029.
J.M. Inside Burgundy: 90-91
AQuite a full yellow. A firm bouquet, plenty of fruit but not the rounded style of old-fashioned Meursault. Fills out more on the palate, with greengage and citrus, lime and grapefruit.
The usual Boillot intensity and length.
Drink from 2028-2031.
J.M. Inside Burgundy: 93-96 (5 star Wine)
TMid lemon colour. A clear cut chiselled white fruit nose with fine intensity. An electric backbone and without the four-square element of some Poruzots.
Extremely fine and here I can see the 2014 suggestion.
Drink from 2029-2034.
J.M. Inside Burgundy: 91-94
Mid yellow in colour. Richer in bouquet than Poruzots but not finer. A lemony tingle at the finish alongside robust oak.
Some sensuality but less delicacy overall. Patisserie such as baba au rhum, or rum and raisin ice cream – a sign of Goutte d’Or for Henri.
Drink from 2029-2034.
J.M. Inside Burgundy: 93-95
A generous mid yellow colour. The bouquet suggests a broad-based fruit, supported by its oak, with a minor reductive tension.
Lots of agrumes follow through, very striking. All limestone and barely any soil here. Another wine in the 2014 mode suggested by Henri Boillot.
Drink from 2030-2036.
J.M. Inside Burgundy: 88-90
Mid lemon yellow. A smoky reduction on the nose. An oily note to the texture, a little burnt note as well, is that from the wood or just reduction?
Slightly sour lemons skins to finish. Not in place today, but I would expect it to cheer up later on.
Drink from 2028-2032.
J.M. Inside Burgundy: 92-94
Mid lemon yellow. There is additional weight to the Perrières, making a very complete wine, fresh almonds for me and Henri Boillot finds a mandarin note as well. Strong mineral backbone. Very nicely balanced overall.
Drink from 2030-2035.
J.M. Inside Burgundy: 92-95
Vibrant mid lemon yellow. More perfumed, rather than electric on the nose, but the electricity shows up clearly in the mouth. Pure white fruit with a riper mandarin note hovering. Very clean and clear cut on the palate, with great persistence. Makes one salivate.
Drink from 2030-2036.
J.M. Inside Burgundy: 93-96
Mid yellow. There is a little touch of patisserie on the nose, showing the additional breadth of fruit on Henri Boillot’s favourite vineyard. That’s what gives the gourmandise to the wine, says Henri.
This seems to have all the aspects with an excellent mineral backbone holding the fruit together. Lime blossom and acacia he finds, from the adjacent trees which flower at the same time. Very fine long finish.
Drink from 2030-2036.
J.M. Inside Burgundy: 94-96
Mid lemon yellow. A powerful white fruit note, with some of the electricity of Pucelles, albeit with greater body. Knocks you back with its intensity. An excellent thread of acidity too.
Will it have the personality of my very favourites? That may indeed develop, but we will have to wait a long time to find out.
Drink from 2032-2038.
J.M. Inside Burgundy: 93-95
Fresh mid lemon. A fine concentration of fresh stony soil, with a little barrel toast. Much more linear of course, though with adequate flesh on the bones. Definite intensity.
Drink from 2030-2036.